WHEN the Catholic armies entered the city of Granada in Spain in the late 15th century, they also took over Alhambra, the place-fortress complex whose construction had started in 1238 under the reign. It was built in stages by the Muslim rulers, with the bulk of their work being completed more than a century later. In 1492, the last Moorish rulere handed over the keys of the city to the new rulers and went into exile. For their part, it is said that the Catholic armies of Queen Isabella were confused about what they found inside the place, including the hammams. Subsequently, many changes were made, including the building of a church to replace a mosque. Today, Moorish baths in Granada are amound the reminders of the Islamic culture that once prevailed. Baths were not popular amoung the European amoung the European monarchy. Their own places including the Versailles whose construction started in 1661, centuries after the Alhambra was built smelled of human excrement because sanitation arrangements were lacking.